Big airlines are giving premier customers better food, more choices and fancier presentation.
American, Northwest and Delta in recent months have upgraded first- and business-class food service after years of slashing costs.
"We assessed where we cut a little too much (after 9/11), and we're reinvesting," says Lauri Curtis, who runs American's onboard service. Among the upgrades: the return of metal cutlery and salt and pepper shakers.
Delta this year hired celebrity chef Michelle Bernstein to create "a more inviting and entertaining experience" for international premium-class fliers.
Big airlines are beginning to make money again and that has allowed changes, Curtis says.
But, says Suzanne Boda, a Northwest executive, airlines remain "judicious" about spending and are trying to be careful to offer only what customers truly want. Northwest is in Chapter 11 bankruptcy.
An endless source of jokes, airline fare has never been considered great. But it reached new lows after rounds of post-9/11 cost cutting. For the quarter ended June 30, U.S. airlines spent an average of $2.32 per passenger. That's 46% less than the 2001 peak of $4.33 per passenger, says consultant Back Aviation Solutions.
Recent upgrades in premium class:
*More choices. American has added an individual tart as an alternative to its traditional ice cream sundae, and artisan-style bread and olive oil as an alternative to a roll and butter. United added a third entree choice on trans-Atlantic flights. Northwest added a second entree for all meals and a snack basket with more choices.
*Presentation. With the approval of federal security authorities, American, Delta and United are bringing back metal knives.
*Pampering. Northwest is introducing fluffier cloth towels for its steamed-towel service. American is now using cloth towels instead of disposable ones.
American now delivers free sparkling water before landings and reintroduced after-dinner mints.
Frequent-flier Rick Shultz of Medina, Ohio, says he was surprised last month to be given a choice of lamb chops, prawns or smoked salmon on a Continental trans-Atlantic flight.
"Three years ago, it was beef medallions and rice," he says.
Focusing on premium meal service is crucial as U.S. carriers expand overseas and compete with foreign airlines, says aviation consultant Randy Babbitt, CEO of Eclat Consulting.
"If all the fares are the same, then what distinguishes you from anybody else?" he says. "It's service."
Contributing: Barbara Hansen
