MEXICO; Cheers to LORETO; New nonstop flights from Houston access a Baja Peninsula town tucked between rugged mountains and the Sea of Cortez and emerging as a hub for snorkeling, hiking and ecotouris

LORETO, MEXICO - The jet was filled with Arizona Cardinals cheerleaders, Loreto-bound for a calendar shoot during a long weekend. As the aircraft descended over rugged terrain and jagged mountains that seem to pop randomly out of the water, one cheerleader peered through the window and said, "I feel like I'm landing in Tucson. And then there's an ocean."

Once we landed, the fire department blasted water at the plane to commemorate this inaugural Continental Airlines Houston-to-Loreto flight last month, and then local officials poured out of the tiny, thatch-roofed airport terminal to greet every passenger.

It was, all in all, an odd introduction to the small town of Loreto on the Baja peninsula about 250 miles north of Cabo San Lucas. But the experience also left an impact: Something interesting must be happening here.

"One of the things that keeps coming up when I'm talking with the girls is that it's not touristy like some other locations," said Heather Karberg, the cheerleaders' director who said the Bidwill family, which owns the National Football League Cardinals, has property in Loreto.

"It's very peaceful," Karberg said. "It's calm. You can come here and not feel like it's a big party."

Years ago, Loreto was tapped by the Mexican government as one of five locales - along with Cancún, Cabo San Lucas, Huatulco and Ixtapa - to be developed into major tourism destinations. But while the others took off, Loreto remained dormant until recently, when visionaries decided that its position on the Sea of Cortez, and activities such as whale-watching, kayaking and fishing, make this a prime spot to promote ecotourism.

"It's a very short flight (less than three hours from Houston), but you feel like you are thousands of miles away," said Jim Grogan, president and CEO of the Loreto Bay Co., which is developing a pedestrian-friendly, ecologically sustainable seaside village about five miles from downtown Loreto.

"You have a different language, unique music and food, unique culture and extraordinary natural beauty," Grogan said. "It's really geared for people who want to relax and enjoy the Sea of Cortez and enjoy the mountains, or people who are very active outdoor adventurers. The ecotourism is very big."

Yoga on the beach

At the affiliated Inn at Loreto Bay, the ecotourism aspect is apparent, from embroidered Camelbak-style hydration packs that guests receive to kayaks available on the beach at all times. Activities such as mountain biking and yoga on the beach take place every weekend.

Within a 90-mile radius of Loreto, spectacular opportunities await adventurers who snorkel the white-sand beaches of Coronado Island or hike through the foothills of the Guadalupe Mountains to see cave paintings.

San Diego residents Carlos Palacios and Sylvia Moreno wanted to celebrate Sylvia's birthday in a special way, so they packed the car and headed south on Highway 1, which runs from Tijuana to Cabo San Lucas. After 12 hours on the highway, along which cactuses seem to reach up from under the desert surface like gnarled, grasping hands, they reached El Burro Beach near the town of Mulegé.

"You're driving, and it's all desert, and then all of a sudden you see the Sea of Cortez," Palacios said, standing ankle-deep in the water. "That's what's so amazing about it. It's like an oasis."

The good life

For $8.50 a night they rented a shaded palapa and set up camp. During the day, they'd dive for scallops or bake in the sun. At night, they'd take in the fresh breezes. The only musts on their agenda were swimming, drinking and sleeping.

"The water is pristine. The fish," he said, interrupting himself to point to the water, "look, there are fish everywhere. It's not a well-traveled paradise. You can't find this stuff within the states."

The Loreto Bay National Marine Park, which stretches from the volcanic island of Coronado south to Catalina Island, is home to 15 species of whales. Whale-watching season is typically in winter and early spring, but other wildlife is abundant year-round.

On Coronado - accessible via small boats called pangas - visitors are likely to see sea lions, dolphins and a variety of vibrant fish.

Coronado also features intricate formations carved into the rocks by Mother Nature over time - one in particular looks like a woman's silhouette - and blue-green water that made one onlooker say: "All of a sudden, it's like Cancún."

Wildlife abounds

The area's natural beauty is nothing new to Juve Orozco, a Mexico native who moved to Loreto several years ago to work as a tour guide.

"I love early in the morning, because you can see the sunrise," Orozco said. "Even in the wintertime, early in the morning you can find different birds."

A trained naturalist guide and father of four, Orozco has watched the small fishing village of Loreto begin to cater to tourists. Souvenir shops line a main street in town (panhandling, however, is prohibited), and plans are in the works for a new airport. Continental's new service from Houston includes two nonstop flights weekly, and flights now arrive daily from cities in California.

Orozco said that while he wants this area preserved for his children, he also believes it can be shared responsibly.

"We don't want another Cabo," Orozco said. "I would like to keep this area not like Cabo but small. Not a big city. It's a beautiful area."

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PLANNING A TRIP: LORETO

Getting there

Nonstop flights: Continental Airlines offers nonstops from Houston to Loreto twice weekly, utilizing regional jets. Ticket prices vary, but introductory fares have been as low as $198 round-trip.

Lodging

Inn at Loreto Bay: Misión de Loreto Boulevard. About five minutes from Loreto, this inn - formerly the Camino Real Resort - has 155 rooms, a beach and a swimming pool. Call 866-850-0333; access www.innatloretobay.com.

Posada de las Flores: Madero Col. Centro in downtown Loreto. This 15-room boutique hotel offers nice city views. Access www.posadadelasflores.com.

Oasis Hotel: On the beach with easy access to downtown Loreto. Call 800-497-3923; access www.hoteloasis.com.

Dining

Domingo's Place: Loreto. Delicious Mexican food with a relaxing patio.

Las Casitas: Main Street in Mulegé. Expansive menu and outstanding Mexican cuisine.

Activities

C&C Tours: Excursions throughout the Mexican state of Baja California Sur include boat trips, hiking and city tours. Book through the Inn at Loreto Bay or call 310-227-6522.

Baja Big Fish Co.: Fly-fishing and bait-fishing tours. Access www.bajabigfish.com.

Resources

Online: www.loreto.com, www.loretobay.com, www.visitmexico.com/wb/Visitmexico/Visi_Loreto and www.continental.com

Phone: 866-956-7386 and 949-376-2252 (these are commercial enterprises, not operated by an official tourism bureau)

- KRISTIN FINAN