"If I had forgotten to pack food, was hungry and had a long flight, I would buy any of them but eat selectively -- which would make it a terrible value," said Kathy Martin, the Herald's food editor.
The parents among the panelists said they would be particularly reluctant to give much of the food to their children. "Kids will be out of their chairs with all this sugar," said Rochelle Koff, a Herald restaurant critic.
But there were bright spots. A small fruit and cheese plate, a jerk chicken sandwich and a ham-and-pineapple-cream cheese breakfast sandwich sold by Song -- Delta's low-cost carrier -- were big hits.
"When I judge food, I look for quality ingredients, and Song's line was impressive," Bloise said. "Most of the food was better than the counter food at the airport."
Still, sometimes, hunger trumps health.
That was the case for Jane Wooldridge, the Herald's travel editor, who bought an American snack box ($3) after a series of delayed flights.
"Packaged food isn't something I normally eat," she said. "But I was really hungry, and given the circumstances, the snack was well worth $3."
Dallas-based Southwest is adding a healthier option to its snacks on long flights, after the Center for Science in the Public Interest slammed the on-board eats.
As airlines have stopped serving meals and even snacks, airport concessions are evolving. Airports are beefing up to-go options, selling more snacks and even seeing a boon in sit-down restaurants.
Nothing to phone home about -- but not bad, for airline food.
Airline officials say they're trying to offset high fuel costs and low fares by charging for services that passengers want.